Italy

Italy - Cinque Terre, Lucca, Pisa and Monte Bondone in the Dolomites

Our train ride from Zermatt to the Italian coast is a long one, hauling our now overweight packs plus day bags from pillar to post and back. 3 train changes to succesively smaller and less modern trains, including the melee in Milan with hundreds of Italians milling around in organised (maybe) chaos. We followed our intrepid guide as she made her way gallantly across platforms and up and down access ways to our required destination.
Finally found our way to Vernazza, one of the five (= cinque) fishing villages on the picturesue coast just south of Genoa. It is a UNESCO site world heritage site, with the five olde world towns clinging to the cliffs surrounding a breakwater protecting a few small fishing boats.
The last train ride was interesting . A large group of French touristes advancing on our position on the train platform, directed by a flag waving guide who seemed very concerned about giving her troops the most advantageous position on the platform. The old enemy was back and neither side were taking prisoners. We placed our lugagge strategically to prevent any further incursions and held firm until the train raced in and screeched to a halt in front of us. We quickly grabbed our luggage and tried to board the train. So did the French, unfortunately with no luggage they were able to get the jump on us but with a little elbow etiquette and urgently passing the bags up we all squeezed on, held our breath, and were all consequently disgorged at the next stop 3 minutes later at Vernazza.

Vernazza is a little town revelling in the influx of tourists, Italian and otherwise. We made our way down the cobbled streets to the quay where our hotel was waiting. It is set in a series of restored old houses which creep up the cliff. Our rooms could be anywhere, unfortunately ours are up a series of steep steps requiring a wrestling match with bags to get them up to our room.Over the back of the hotel terrace we can hear the surf pounding the cliffs directly below. Such a great place, although lifts would certainly assist overweight and over baggaged antipodean tourists!
Breakfast is scrumptious pastries, freshly squeezed orange juice and 'cafe americano' at a sicilian bakery just out of town. The over friendly owner could 'talk the leg off an iron pot' as Denise would say, but all is forgiven for a great breakfast.
First day outing we took the train to Corniglia and walked back to Vernazza. Its the old track which used to be the only connection between the four towns, going up a couple of hundred metres at times on a cliff edge track. Magic coming down on Vernazza from on high seeing it nestled in the cove. After lunch we caught the train to the furtherest point of Riomaggiore then walked between the towns of Riomaggiore and Manarola, caught the train to the northernmost town of Montorosso.One part of the track was the 'love track' a short 2km section where couples had locked in padlocks onto the fences to ensure everlasting love. Very popular but highly illogical.Montorosso is more of your average Italian beachside village, complete with Gelato, private beaches, umbrellas and sun loungers packed in tightly. The worst part of the beach naturally reserved for the non paying public. Nevertheless a fun place, though one shop we wandered into the high strung manageress was in the process of thowing a bewildered american out of the shop. When talking to her she took offence at nothing and started getting very excited, she sure was a flighty Italian, though in NZ I suspect being considered manic would be more a appropriate diagnosis. We had a beer and tapas in one bar, then found a great Pizza place in a back street bar, eventually sorting out a train back to Vernazza. Balmy temperatures,hot pizza and cold beer make for a great night.
Another early morning train out of Vernazza to Montorossa where a small bus tookus a couple of hours drive to the old world Roman city of Lucca. We have a hotel ( Piccolo Puccini) inside the old city where cars are not allowed so we lug a packs inside past 15th and 16th century houses and cobbled streets to our hotel. 2nd floor in a renovated ( it shows) apartment block. We zip out to Pisa on a train, which is 20 minutes away, to take all the obligatory leaning photos, and bus back.

Julie , Denises cousin, is working in Pisa as a teacher so we arrange for her to come over the next night for a meal. Day time was a bus/walk to a vineyard, lengthened somewhat by our bus driving completely in the wrong direction for half an hour, a walk in the stifling heat for a couple of hours around rural tracks followed by wine and olive oil tasting. Back late for Julie waiting patiently in the hotel. Kiwi accents she hadnt heard for 3 months coming through the door and she knew we had arrived.
Out for tea to the original roman amphitheatre, not a trace survived but it was hereabouts somewhere! Anyway had a very average meal ( give me back street tavernas anytime) , enjoyed a gelato on the way to the train station to find the last train to Pisa had long departed. Ducked over to the bus station but no luck there either. Getting late ( and tired) by now so back to our hotel for a think. We decided to come clean with the manager and see if she could bunk with us for the night. 'no room, no room' which was a bit disheartening until he said she would have to sleep in our room on a spare mattress. Excellent result. She hardly snored and didnt complain too much about no fan. Early start to the station for the 6.53am to Pisa whilst Denise and I did the 5 km circuit of the massive defensive Roman -Medieval walls which surround Lucca.

Had a leisurely morning wandering the shops then after pizza (what else) lunch in an old square near where Puccini lived we caught the train to Trento. Bit of a mission, bags in a couple of taxis with me looking after the luggage at the train station whilst the others walked out of the old town to the railway. Bit of a dodgy place if someone had whipped off with sometthing I couldnt really leave the rest to chase after them. No probs though with everyone turning up safe and sound in a few minutes.

Dolomites, Italy

Long trip up into Northern Italy and the Dolomites to Trento. Much cooler here now in the mountains with a glacier fed river running through town. Paulo the owner from our hotel Monto Bondono picked us all up and bussed us  halfway up a mountain to his ski lodge. Fabulous view of the Valley way below and the road twisting and turning on its way up. Every year there is a car rally from Trento to the top pass, must be an amazing spectacle although Paulo tells us it is a drinkfest rather than sportsfest.
Three Peaks trip the next day which we are informed is the hardest on the trip entailing some serious climbing. A couple of us turned back high up but Denise did very well and got to the top. Returned to Monte Bondono for a high class meal with great wine from the local vineyards. Had a walk early next morning through a forest trail with the white dolomite rocks strewn over the path and trees appearing to grow directly out of the rocky terrain. Glimpses of distant peaks and craggy cliffs in the haze through the trees complete the picture.
Next stop Selva Wolkenstein in the Val Gardena Valley in southern Austria where Winter Olympics are either due to be held or have been held, not sure which but plenty of snow in winter either way.