Thursday, 26 May 2011

Paros to Athens

Paros
This is a similar sized island enroute to Athens.
From our Naxos Resort Hotel we were picked up and caught the slow ferry to Paros. Its about an hour so we managed to nab some first class seats to ride in some comfort. Stowed our packs and settled in for the ride.
These island are really quite close and the weather great so the passage was smooth until we reached Parikia, port of Paros. Another placard waving ( the only one on show) tourist guide caught our attention with our name so off we hopped into another large bus to our hotel in Naoussa, half an hours drive away. We had the bus to ourselves so I thought we were extra special, however we were soon brought to earth.
Kanali Hotel, is built into the side of the hill and naturally faces a nice beach and harbour, unless you get the cave room. Now did someone tell them we enjoyed Cappadocia or what because we got the worst room in the hotel. No sunlight, dark and (if its possible in Greece) damp. Reminds me a little of Port Douglas - Kerryn will know what I mean.
Naxos had its shortcomings ( e.g. a portable, takehome safe) but this is not up to standard. Living off past glories I suspect. Not sure how much we paid as it was 'all inclusive' but I will write a short note to the architects of our Odyssey Abroad.
Anyway we accepted our fate and took off for centreville. We wandered around town, its wee port crammed with dozens of small fishing boats tied up. Couldnt believe the number of cafes with acres of chairs/seats/sofas displayed in front to entice the odd stroller by into their web. Yes and we fell headlong, ours though only with a dozen or so exceptionally hard chairs and scruffy tables, so sort of authentic. No spiv trying to corral us in either so that was a bonus. Actually we had only sat down for a drink, and out comes the tablecloth, bread and olive oil plonked down in front of us. So I guess it was tea at 3pm, although there were a few Greek speaking people around us doing the same thing so maybe we are getting into the local swing of things here.
We ordered Greek salad and local fish; great salad as usual, fish was dried, salted, pan fried and served whole. Pretty good really but Denise didnt enjoy the eye of the fish watching her while we ate it I have to say. The local cats forever hanging around did well out of the scraps though.
Next day was a beaut again. After catching up with the family via skype, we caught the bus to Crysi Arkti 'Golden Beach'. Lovely beach, relatively deserted probably due to the wind whipping off shore. A couple of wind surfers going, plus some brave swimmers (Germans no doubt) doing some laps. Actually its better than 90% of Canterbury beaches 90% of the time so mustnt grumble.
Strolled back to out hotel and found a wee patch of sunshine in a landing above our level. No one staying here so we hung up a line for our washing, found a chair and watched the washing dry, all while keeping an eye on the setting sun. Seems a suitable Grecian activity. We opened our bottle of Champagne (real thing) from our Odyssey Cruise so decided to watch the washing dry in style, sipping on expensive Champers. Had a dip in their picturesque pool too, which was pretty cold. It was deep and mostly in shadow so didnt warm up much.
Next day up early to catch the bus to Levkas via Parikia up into the hills. The plan was to walk the Byzantine Trail Levkas to Prodromas about 5km. First bus 8.30am, no bus. Next bus 9.30, no bus. Next bus 11am, no taking chance ! Walked to town to central bus depot and caught the bus there. Hobby farming countryside with rectangular haybales, stone walls the odd windmill, however derelict farms and paddocks abound. Tourism is definitely no 1.

View over Levkas

Walking the Byzantine Trail
Bus to Parikia, then next bus to Levkas. Fortunately there is a second bus so we get there OK. Wonderful countryside, pulling into another picture postcard white washed village clinging to the hillside. Perfectly positioned to catch the view, and breeze, up the valley. We catch our breath, then after a coke and OJ in the cool of the tree shaded town centre, we set off down the trail. Levkas was the ancient capital and the trail served as a means of communication between town and port. Well signposted (yes!) we quickly made time over the rough shod road, turning now and then to see cute'n'quaint Levkas recede behind us. Reached Prodromas well before time, so set off down the Main Road to Marpissa then the beach resort of Piso Livadi. Narrow roads cars, bikes and off roaders all over the show. Scary enough but then you realise they are probably chain smoking and talking on the cellphone at the same time as driving. At least I havnt seen anyone texting whilst driving yet. Well deserved ice cream then caught the last bus to Naoussa. Another refreshing dip in the cool pool and a sit in the sun to make sure our washing is drying correctly to finish off an eventually satisfying day.

Paros Harbour

Thunderclaps and rain awoke us, time to get going. Talk about Karma, I snaffled a boiled egg from breakfast, only to find the yolk was runny as I found out to my cost with a crushed egg in my pocket! Aboard Blue Star Ferry to Pireaus, a 5 hour trip. What a commotion, there is a Greek party all around us people shouting nineteen to the dozen, old mamas and papas, young bambinos all having a go. No goats, though one canary in a bamboo cage. You dont have to shout you know - loudness isnt a sign of effective communication. A guy behinds us stands to excitedly yap into his cellphone, obviously gesticulating whilst sitting just doesnt get the message through.

Afters 4 and a half hours we are in Athens !

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